No crowds, just calm: the Fiji island escape that quietly delivers it all

It's as I leap off the boat and splash down into the blue depths of the Pacific Ocean that I begin to appreciate the paradise I have found myself in. I look through my snorkel at what appears to be a photo spread from National Geographic magazine; colourful tropical fish swim past my face in a rainbow of graceful calm.

There are so many fish that I worry about getting in their way, but they simply move past me and continue with whatever it is fish do. I am en route to the popular family destination of Malolo Island Resort on a day trip with South Sea Cruises on a 78-foot catamaran (named Sabre), which includes a delicious lunch and guided snorkelling trip at a secluded sandbar.

One couple takes the "you're on Fiji time now" directive seriously when they order cocktails, which are dutifully made on the cruise boat, then delivered on a dinghy to one of the staff members who treads carefully through the water to hand them without spilling a drop. Before long we are whisked away by speedboat to a jetty where we are treated to a rock star's welcome of beautiful singing, calls of Bula and have a shell necklace placed around our necks, before being shown to the welcome area. I don't know what it is exactly that causes my whole body to exhale at this point; it's incredible how immediately I relax.

Malolo Island Resort is situated an easy 25-kilometre boat ride (or helicopter flight, if you are so inclined) from Nadi, in the heart of the Mamanuca islands region.

I am staying in one of 20 ocean-view bures; there are a total of 46 at the resort including eight island bures, 12 deluxe ocean view, four family and two adults-only options.

Each bure (pronounced boo-rey, the Fijian word for house) is in a plantation-style, reminiscent of the colonial era with high vaulted ceilings that let in light and make the rooms feel spacious. The one I'm in is just steps away from the beach and has a very tempting hammock. The king-sized bed is very comfy and I appreciate the new espresso machine.

Though you may well want to use this place as an escape from reality - especially your job back home - recent upgrades have allowed for high-speed Wi-Fi in all bures and across the resort; a new app makes booking experiences and checking out the daily plans very easy.

Sitting on the deck I watch the different shades of blue in the Pacific Ocean for a while before I shut my eyes to enjoy a gentle breeze wafting the fronds of the coconut trees. Birds chirp and there are the occasional faraway sounds of jet boats and the strum of a guitar.

Later we go on a sunset cruise around the nearby islands where we are serenaded by the dulcet tones of Sivivatu Kisa and his acoustic guitar. As we watch the sun shimmering as it sets over the ocean he sings a song with a line - "I'm in heaven, I'm in Fiji." I can't help but agree.

But, we're late, eve on Fiji time. The captain asks when we are booked into the restaurant and then turns the engine up full throttle to get us back to the resort in time.

Tonight we eat in the adults-only Treetops restaurant (families are catered for in the Terrace restaurant or the beach bar): it is a delicious affair with island relaxation ambience mixed with a touch of elegance. I enjoy roasted scallops with sweet peas, chorizo, garlic chive and saffron and then move to a visually stunning local octopus terrine with hand-sculpted coconut miti, coconut chutney, chili oil and coriander. I opt for two entrees so I can fit in a dessert of passionfruit and coconut sorbet.

Resort head chef Sakiusa Kete, who started as a kitchen hand 20 years ago at Malolo, said he hopes to increase the amount of food produced locally on the island from the current 25 per cent. The resort sources fish locally and hand makes everything in order to cater for guests' dietary needs.

We are up at the not-so-holiday-friendly time of 6am to go for a walk up Jonah's Hill; a steep climb up stairs that is easier to do before the heat and humidity kicks in for the day. Our guide Simione Navotu takes us on a different route back to the resort through mangroves and coconut trees around the shore line. We stop, and despite confessing a late night of too much kava and cigarettes, he nonchalantly shimmies high up a coconut tree to shake a few down for us.

There is plenty on offer for families at this resort, including the award-winning Tia's Treehouse Kids Club, which provides a program that varies each day, immersing children in Fiji's environment, culture and history.

Snorkelling (available right in front of the resort), stand-up paddle boarding, kayaking, guided walks and other beachside cultural activities are complimentary with equipment provided and there are fees for other activities like diving, surf trips out to Cloud Break, guided snorkeling, fishing, dolphin spotting and a jet ski safari.

After only a short stay I was surprisingly attached to this island. I don't know if it was the welcoming and helpful resort staff, the beautiful island surroundings or the fabulous relaxing massage I enjoyed at Leilani's Spa. Whatever it is, something tells me I'll be back here one day.

The writer was a guest of the resort