Forget Queenstown - this underrated NZ escape will surprise even seasoned travellers

We Aussies love a classic underdog story, and as it turns out, I might have discovered New Zealand's most underrated city. I've been in Hamilton less than 12 hours, and as I meander along impossibly green tree-lined paths beside the city's lifeblood, the mighty Waikato River, I'm certainly starting to think it's been undersold.

For decades, the country's fourth-largest city has been known less for what it offers and more for what it doesn't - such as the beaches of Auckland, 125 kilometres to the north, or the geothermal appeal of Rotorua. The Tron (a nickname that stuck thanks to an unofficial slogan of the 1990s - Hamiltron: City of the Future) has been viewed as nothing more than a stopover at times.

But for those who like to look a little deeper, a different Hamilton is emerging - cosmopolitan, eco-friendly, and offering excellent food, culture and character.

I found cafes full of local flavours, while street art told stories of heritage and a nature escape was never far away.

If there's a single place that sums up Hamilton's vibrancy, though, it's Hamilton Gardens. It's not simply a botany tour or a collection of native plantings - in 18 enclosed gardens over 45 hectares, it covers 4000 years of human history, from the Italian Renaissance to ancient Egypt to Tudor England.

Set beside the river, each garden transports you to a different era. One minute, I am contemplating the Zen of a Japanese tea garden and the next, gazing at huge animatronic trees and oversized forks in the surrealist garden that feels straight out of Alice in Wonderland.

While the gardens reveal Hamilton's biophilic focus, its food scene shows the city has developed a confident palate.

Made Market, opened in 2023, is where Hamilton's youthful energy is on full display. This urban precinct in Hamilton East is home to craft food stalls, artisan makers and boutique retailers over four storeys. The building's aesthetic is warm and light-filled, much like the friendly community vibes within.

As a sucker for porridge, I headed straight to Oat Bros to sample their creamy, pear-poached take on the humble grain, and spent a sunny morning perusing the eclectic but curated selection of vendors.

Back in town, the river once again sets the stage for one of Hamilton's most acclaimed dining experiences - Gothenburg. Drawing on both New Zealand and European influences, it's known for inventive tapas dishes and a carefully curated wine list.

I ordered the chef's selections and sat back to take in this impressive and airy, high-ceilinged space. At night, it felt surprisingly intimate despite its cavernous interior and imposing glass windows, thanks to friendly acoustics, low, warm lighting and minimalist furnishings interspersed with indoor plants.

I will not soon forget the mixed mushroom and steamed tofu wontons in miso butter with toasted hazelnuts and chives, nor the crisp twice-cooked lamb ribs braised in master stock with sticky glaze, red onion, fresh mint, lime and chilli.

Another significant feather in Hamilton's cap, and one that adds to its distinctive flavour, is part dining venue and part wellness retreat. The story of Zealong Tea Estate - New Zealand's only commercial tea plantation - starts with the father of founder Vincent Chen, noting how well a neighbour's camellia (part of the tea plant family) grew.

The pair did some investigation and imported 1500 tea plant cuttings from Asia. Just 150 survived a rigorous quarantine, and it is from these surviving plants that the entire 1.2 million tea plants on 48 hectares of organic land exist.

While it's an obvious must-see for tea lovers, there's something for everyone at Zealong, with a restaurant, high tea space (the savoury scones are a must) and a newly built retail space, as well as accommodation options and a sculpture walk.

Hamilton has a strong sense of culture and identity, and one of the best ways to appreciate this is through the Maori Art Walking Tour. Our local guide Les brought the city's murals, carvings and installations to life. Each piece tells a story of Waikato's heritage, and many are connected to and surround the city's life source - the river.

A visit to the Te Whare Taonga o Waikato Museum & Gallery, also on the river, presented the opportunity to continue exploring on foot and to delve deeper into this rich history. Exhibitions range from taonga (treasures) of the Tainui people to contemporary New Zealand art. I felt a sense of appreciation and enrichment exploring the cultures that have contributed to Hamilton's narrative.

While the Waikato River slices through the heart of the city, there is a network of paths that invite walkers and cyclists to see the city from a fresh angle. Early mornings are especially rewarding, when the mist hangs low over the water and the only sounds are birdsong and the crunch of gravel underfoot.

I took part in a short guided tour of medicinal plants with guide Ringi before being left to explore and marvel in this restorative and magical place.

A 16-metre-tall tower provides a great view of the canopy layer (if you can get past the swaying). I was there during the day; however, it's possible to take part in overnight visits, which will greatly increase the chances of seeing a kiwi or the endangered kakapo, as they are nocturnal birds. I had to settle for a kiwi plushie at the souvenir shop.

Hamilton is a city that has used its history as a tale for reinvention. It's a place where world-class gardens sit alongside cutting-edge eateries, where Maori culture is boldly celebrated, and nature beckons in the city centre and beyond.

That makes Hamilton the kind of discovery we love - a city still flying under the radar, but full of surprises and easy to get to.

The writer was a guest of Jetstar and Waikato & Hamilton Tourism