Explore Berlin like a local with this ultimate season-by-season guide

Average temperature: 5/14 degrees

WHY: You can feel the excitement among Berliners as the city emerges from the winter cold. Cafes and restaurants open their terraces and locals embrace the outdoors: some getting active on a cycling trail, others enjoying a simple picnic in the park. Just remember to layer up.

HOW: Mild temperatures make for perfect cycling weather and Berlin is filled with cycle trails, including its signature 160-kilometre Berlin Wall Cycle Trail. Not up for the whole route? Stick with 50-kilometre section that runs past many of the city's most important sites, starting at Potsdamer Platz. Don't miss the part that passes through Treptow, where 1000 cherry blossom trees bloom in spring. For more flower displays, take a stroll through the Britzer Garden, where masses of tulips blossom every April, or the Tiergarten - the former royal hunting grounds, now Berlin's biggest park - where the daffodils of early spring are followed by chestnut blossoms, rhododendrons and, in May, an impressive display of roses. Tuck into fresh produce at Neukolln's Cafe Botanico, which harvests its ingredients from the on-site permaculture garden, or go old-school with some kaffee und kuchen (coffee and cake) at the wonderfully traditional Konditorei Buchwald hard by the Tiergarten. For a room with a view over the Tiergarten, head to SO Das Stue, housed in the former Danish embassy and featuring a stellar art collection as well as a lovely terrace that is perfect for pre-dinner drinks.

Average temperature: 14/23 degrees

WHY: Berlin's summer sits squarely in the Goldilocks zone - daylight that lasts past 9pm, temperatures that rarely soar above 30 degrees. The city's bohemian side is on show, with locals seizing the opportunity to sun themselves on any stretch of green space they find, even in the heart of the city.

HOW: It's surprising how many visitors arrive in Berlin unaware that this is a city with 30,000 kilometres of waterways, not counting the area's 3000 lakes, and summer is a great time to make the most of all that water. A Spree River boat tour - choose from daytime, sunset or nocturnal sailings - gives you a fresh perspective on some of Berlin's most memorable sights, including the Reichstag parliament and the historic Nikolai Quarter. For a refreshing dip, try the Badeschiff off Museum Island, a pool submerged in the Spree, or take the trip out to the forest-fringed Liepnitzsee lake. Open-air cinemas spring up in districts including Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg, while sundowners at Berlin's many rooftop bars, such as the one atop the Hotel de Rome, are a lovely way to end the day. Or enjoy an al fresco dinner at a beer garden such as Biergarten & Restaurant Fisch-Borke on the banks of the Muggelsee lake. Berlin has surprisingly few waterfront hotels but the Ameron Berlin Villa Abion, in two buildings on the Spree, is a rare exception. Choose between the contemporary and the historic building; opt for a lower-floor Waterside room if you want direct water views.

Average temperature: 7/14 degrees

WHY: The days may be getting shorter, but autumn is always a lively time in Berlin. The football season kicks off, as does a rich selection of cultural festivals. As the weather gets cooler, vendors of roast chestnuts start to reappear, offering warming seasonal snacks.

HOW: You will never run out of things to do in Berlin, a city with eight major orchestras, three opera houses and more than 400 galleries, but the array of options is particularly abundant in September. That is when annual festivals devoted to music, art and literature roll out, followed in October by the Festival of Lights, which illuminates landmarks such as the Brandenburg Gate in vivid colours. Autumn is also a good time to check out the city's palaces, many of which have grand gardens that look particularly splendid in autumnal colours. Often overshadowed by the palaces of nearby Potsdam, Berlin's charming royal retreats include the rococo flair of Charlottenburg Palace, with its grand ballroom and its Orangery, home to regular concerts, and the Kopenick Palace, picturesquely surrounded by water. Check in to the elegant Hotel Luc, hard by the Konzerthaus, for easy access to some of the city's best performance venues. Restaurants in this area include the Asian fine diner Tim Raue, and the locavore Nobelhart & Schmutzig, which eschews ingredients that don't grow in the Berlin area (yep, they put together a whole menu without using basics such as black pepper).

Average temperature: -1/4 degrees

WHY: No one would call Berlin's grey winters particularly welcoming, but there are good reasons to visit during the cooler months. The festive season casts a magic glow across the city, creating a playground for all ages. The city's excellent public transport makes it easy to get around town without too much exposure to the elements; just remember to bring a warm coat.

HOW: Strap on your skates at the outdoor ice-skating rinks that pop up around town, including Winterwelt Potsdamer Platz and at the Neptunbrunnen. Tuck into bratwurst, mulled wine and gingerbread at the city's many Christmas markets; the one that unfolds at the Gendarmenmarkt is among the loveliest. On days when the weather is downright miserable, Museum Island offers plenty of places to while away some hours, including the sculpture collection at the Bode Museum and antiquities at the Neues Museum. Over near Potsdamer Platz, the Neue Nationalgalerie is a don't-miss museum for lovers of modern art. This is also the perfect time to tuck into hearty Alpine food, and Restaurant Schneeweiss in Friedrichshain offers everything from fondue to Wiener schnitzel. Alternatively, book yourself a table at the cosy Frea, which reduces food waste by using scraps to create flavour-forward broths, sauces and creams. The Australian-owned Adina Apartment Hotel Berlin Hackescher Markt has a central location by the Museum Island and offers tiny touches of home, including Vegemite on the breakfast buffet.