My name appears in black cursive on a wooden tag wrapped around a burnt-edge pirate-like scroll. Inside are one-word clues to a six-course degustation menu. It simply states the protein and matching colour of wine for each. I love both the personal touch and the element of mystery at the award-winning Hearth.
Subscribe now for unlimited access.
or signup to continue reading
The new dining experience, Chef's Counter, at the flagship restaurant of the Ritz-Carlton hotel in Perth, is full of suspense and awe. The "counter" seats just six diners, allowing them to closely observe the chefs working their culinary magic. A fiery hearth adds theatre behind the fast-cutting commotion. The barrier between the kitchen and guests is brought down further with intimate, cordial interactions with head chef Brian Cole throughout the night.
"So, what have we gotten ourselves into, Brian?" I ask. I'm usually one to study a menu long and hard; Chef's Counter, however, quashes indecision. Eagerly, Brian leans over the counter and talks about his early days cooking with his grandmother after fleeing Sierra Leone amid the civil war, and how his career donning a chef's hat has led him to embrace Australia's diverse food scene. The menu turns seasonal WA produce and native ingredients into meticulously crafted dishes - some reimagined favourites, some new. Each course comes with a story - where it was sourced and how it came to be - all presented over the counter by Brian.
Read more on Explore:
A small wooden box with the hearth's charcoal billows with smoke, slowly revealing two smoked caviar tarts infused with dried rosemary. It's dramatic and delicious.
A vibrant plating of charred Fremantle octopus with candied desert limes, saltbush, and Aquna Gold caviar is punchy and light.
The last dish, a half-moon-shaped camembert ice-cream sandwich, ignites the nostalgia of an old freezer favourite. The elevated dessert is beautifully topped with dried rose petals, making this a journey I'll happily go on again.
