The ultimate guide to Australia's capital cities

Australian capital cities have sprung back from the lockdowns - bigger, stronger and buzzier than ever. And our experts are on the ground with local insights to help you make the most of your visits.

By Larissa Dubecki

You can't get bored in Melbourne. As a lifetime local, I defy you to remain unmoved by its electrically charged nightlife, eclectic arts scene, and restaurants and bars so good they make a visiting gourmand weep.

Favourites? I have a few hundred or so, but nothing stays still in this city for long. Any visitor in 2023 would do well to heed the call of the new; first, by checking into CBD hotel Voco where five-star luxury meets dazzling city views and Melbourne's trademark quirk is delivered via bird-themed works by local artists.

Stay on-theme with the amazing bird's-eye view delivered at Carlton's Royal Exhibition Building, where a just-launched guided tour of the promenade encircling the UNESCO-listed grand dame's dome offers views not seen by the public in more than 100 years.

For a novel way of seeing art, head to South Wharf, where Australia's first digital art gallery The Lume has 150 hidden projectors layering a changeable montage across every surface of a 3000-square-metre warehouse. Until June 30, Monet & Friends will envelop you in a vision of Impressionism, including those iconic waterlilies and Edgar Degas's ethereal ballerinas.

Time to refuel in style? In South Yarra, the stone walls and gold accents of glamorous modern Japanese restaurant Yugen are a fitting backdrop to the work of "sashimi florist" Alex Yu. Each premium platter is a work of edible art, including meticulously arrayed tuna belly, scampi and abalone.

And for the ultimate night cap, Shane Delia's laneway bar Jayda next door to his CBD restaurant Maha is the place for a rosehip-and-blackberry-leaf-infused Negroni - not to mention the fabulous booze-sopping snack of slow-cooked lamb pastry with spiced jus.

By Akash Arora

If there was ever a perfect time to tap into Sydney's ceaseless energy it would be now. Like right now.

Battered by lockdowns like the rest of the world, the Harbour City has sprung back - bigger, stronger, busier and buzzier than ever before, with a relentless roll call of new openings: from happening bars (like the Sussex Rooftop) and must-book restaurants (such as Oborozuki, the last word in Japanese fine-dining) to world-class cultural attractions (such as Sydney Modern) and achingly cool hotels (like Oxford House) that are truly capturing the buzz of the city.

Not to mention a spate of major events, which have either just ended (Sydney Festival) or are about to kick off with a bang (think Sydney WorldPride, which this year will incorporate all the favourite Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras events).

Yes, it's very easy to get lost in Sydney's confetti right now if you're here for just a short trip. But not if you follow this succinct itinerary of the city's key moments.

Grab a spot at Rekodo - Matt Moran's new drinking and dining haunt inspired by the vinyl bars of Japan. Located on the second floor of Barangaroo House, it's doing a fine trade in Japanese small plates - nori tartlet with kingfish and Tobiko roe, anyone? - synced perfectly with Klipsch La Scala speakers belting out hits from Amy Winehouse and Dusty Springfield.

Dinner at Ploos in The Rocks should be your next stop. Staggering views of the harbour and Opera House may at first threaten to steal the show, but Peter Conistis's lip-smacking South Aegean fare will bring your gaze right back to the table. Kataifi tarts with whipped feta and pastarami is a standout, along with butter-soft lamb, beef and pork sausages that are known to leave diners with tears of joy.

A nightcap at the decadently furnished Spice Trader bar - think green marble bar and velvet-clad banquettes - is a must. So too is a bed at Ace Sydney, where brightly coloured rooms rooms kitted out with guitars and in-room vinyls set the scene for a muso-style stay.

Whatever you do, make sure to set aside a few hours for a private guided walk through one of Sydney's three incredible national parks (Royal National, Ku-ring-gai Chase or Sydney Harbour) with Trip Slow. Led by tourism professional Caroline Rutherford, they offer sweeping views and informative commentary, and finish off with a delicious picnic.

By Max Veenhuyzen

When exactly did Perth complete its glow-up from big country town to worldly metropolis? The exact date is tricky to pinpoint, even for someone like me who's lived in the WA capital his entire adult life.

What I can tell you, though, is which of the city's new attractions are most deserving of your attention, starting with the Rowing Pavilion - a buzzy dining and drinking den on the banks of Canning River, with a stellar menu of treats; from dishes like Korean steak sandwich with coconut sriracha to inventive cocktails like Pav Squash (a heady concoction of vodka, limoncello and lemon myrtle).

Back to the city centre: Boola Bardip - the rebooted WA Museum - has re-emerged after its four-year makeover and is home to both historic artefacts and contemporary art, while Astral Weeks and its vast vinyl collection and hand-built sound system is the new late-night hi-fi listening bar Perth didn't know it craved.

Between its micro cinemas, bars and live music venues, West Perth's Pickle District is making a serious bid for cultural hotspot status. Score great baked goods at Cheerio Coffee and expand your music horizons at Bad Habits.

Among the city's wine bar debutants, Mount Hawthorn's Casa best nails the small plates (pumpkin seed dip) and interesting vino (skin-contact Malvasia from Italy's Friuli region) double-act.

Fremantle is also having a moment: happening bistro La Lune is a reminder why the world loves French cooking, while the recently opened upstairs bar above Madalena's adds cocktails, house charcuterie and ocean views to the bar's already impressive seafood and wine offering.

On the more casual tip: the opening of Japanese eatery Hinata Cafe was rousing news for the city's Japanophiles, while warm service and great bread from a former Iggy's baker makes Hunter Bread another unmissable Fremantle address.

By Andrew Bain

It was Hobart's natural setting, squeezed between mountain and river, that first drew me to the place I've called home for 14 years, but it's the city's continual evolution that I've truly come to love.

Its dining scene has been motoring along for years, but quite literally now in the case of Omotenashi, a new 12-seater restaurant tucked into the back of a Lexus showroom. The intimate restaurant, serving up to 16 courses around a single countertop, is open for just two sittings a week.

Equally fresh is Ogee, a European-style neighbourhood bistro that's the newest venture from chef Matt Breen, founder of long-time Hobart favourites Templo and Sonny. The pasta is handmade, or try the likes of schnitzel and white asparagus with mussel veloute.

If you could carbon-date Hobart's transformation as a city, it would of course begin with MONA's arrival 12 years ago, and I'm keenly awaiting the opening later this summer of Manky Sally's, a suitably eccentric Salamanca taphouse from MONA's beer label, Moo Brew.

Early reports are of forged artworks hanging among prized originals, and furniture forged in MONA's own warehouses. Meanwhile, MONA's new Oceans of Air exhibition, running until July 24, sees the return of a David Walsh favourite: Argentine artist Toms Saraceno.

After an 18-month closure, the Agrarian Kitchen Cooking School has reopened closer to town. It's now in the grounds of Willow Court, New Norfolk's former asylum, beside the Agrarian Kitchen Eatery and their shared one-acre kitchen garden. Also re-emerged and reinvigorated is the Telegraph Hotel, complete with Hobart's second rooftop bar (after the opening of Aura two years ago), looking down onto the docks and Brooke Street Pier.

By Natascha Mirosch

As a long-time local, I can confirm that Brisbanites are not given over to hyperbole or humblebragging when it comes to our city - we generally prefer to sit back and smile knowingly at visitors' surprise.

Sunny Brisbane's laid-back charm is counterbalanced by an eclectic cultural offering, a tightly packed events calendar and a top-notch food scene.

There are starred hotels aplenty, but for something with bonafide Brissie terroir, check into a suite at the peachy, heritage-listed Miss Midgely's, a former private school transformed into chic lodgings in New Farm.

The best way to see the river city is, of course, from the water. Have a ride on us and take the free cross-river route on one of Brisbane's new "kitty cats".

Jump ship at the Queensland Gallery of Modern Art for the ethereal Air (until April 23) with immersive works of artists such as Ron Meuck and Anthony McCall.

Seeking sustenance? Lean on the amiable staff for recommendations from the small-producer-focussed wine list at the tiny, moodily lit Butler also with a menu of drink-friendly snacks and plates; from anchovy-spiced nuts and house pickles to a sous vide, scorched gochujang pork belly with puffed wheat.

There's no signage, but follow the George Street alleyway with the Indigenous street art mural (spelling out "treaty" in Auslan) to find Before and After, a pocket-sized underground bar, where amaro aficionado owner George will size you up and help you choose the perfect amaro.

And for dinner, it has to be newcomer Tillerman - with elevated terrace river views and a seafood-leaning menu, it's the quintessential Brisbane experience.

By Alley Pascoe

There's something in the air in Darwin. Just underneath the thick humidity and the scent of frangipani, is a distinct buzz. If you listen closely, that buzz says, "This is the place to be."

After spending my first full year in Darwin - surviving the wet and relishing in the dry - I can confirm the hype. In 2023, Australia's smallest capital city is offering up some big reasons to visit.

There are new food haunts (like Last Supper pizzeria), fresh happy hours (including $10 aperitifs from 5pm-6pm every day at Darlings Pasta Club) and experiences only the NT can provide (like the one-of-a-kind music festival East Arnhem Live in Nhulunbuy).

Back in town, a good day starts with an appropriately iced latte at The 1995 in the Air Raid Arcade serving up Pradre coffee all the way from Melbourne, so you know it's good.

While you're there, make sure you walk 10 metres down the arcade to pick up a tee designed by Larrakia man Shaun Edwards at his flagship store, House of Darwin.

By Alexis-Buxton Collins

Watching Adelaide's first small bars open a decade ago was like watching a shy teenager find their voice, and since then the city has blossomed into a confident adult with a noticeable swagger.

Smokelovers on Rundle Street typifies that new self-assurance, combining the welcoming anything-goes atmosphere of the neighbouring Exeter Hotel with a grown-up drinks list of on point natural wines and cocktails like the appropriately smoky mezcal margarita.

It will be in the thick of the action when festival season shifts Adelaide's centre of gravity eastwards, as will the sparkling-new Vibe Hotel Adelaide, where you can put on your own show by doing a few laps in the suspended sky pool connecting it with nearby apartments.

Andy Warhol knew a thing or two about making a scene, and the Art Gallery of South Australia will showcase more than 250 of the original influencer's photographs until May 14, when they will be replaced by an ode to the power couple of Mexican Modernism, Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.

Looking to track down some edible artworks instead? The Central Market has always been the engine driving Adelaide's food scene, with dozens of fresh produce vendors wedged between Korean, Moroccan and Colombian food stalls. Now Si Sea lets you enjoy Adelaide's freshest seafood in situ with a glass of champagne, while Saudade only sells one thing but the exquisite vanilla-tinged Portuguese custard tarts encased in flaky pastry and dusted with cinnamon are worth the trip alone.

By Karen Hardy

It's a bit of a joke in Canberra that nobody is actually from here. But after 30 years in the nation's capital, I feel confident to call myself a local.

One thing I love about the city is that, for all its planned formality, it's a place that is constantly changing. We have seasons, we have new governments and new restaurants, starting with Such and Such.

The team from the two-hatted Pilot in Ainslie has just opened this new eatery in Constitution Place. While it has the same edge as Pilot, the all-day restaurant is a little more chilled, with dishes - from aged sirloin with bone marrow onions to whole flathead - designed to share. There's a strong focus on wines, with local offerings alongside some quirky internationals.

And you won't have far to walk home if you're staying at one of Canberra's newest hotels. The A by Adina is luxurious but laid back, offering studio, one- and two-bedroom apartments in the heart of the city. The rooms are full of natural textures and there's so much glass with great views over the city.

The next morning it's only a quick walk to Lake Burley Griffin for an easy five-kilometre loop around the central basin, or jump on a revamped paddleboat and see the major institutions such as the National Gallery of Australia, the National Library and the National Museum of Australia from a different angle.

Make sure you pull into The Marion for high tea (or a smart lunch). This restaurant has set a new standard for lakeside dining. The three-course lunch menu, for $75, could include dishes such as lobster bisque, roast duck with local black garlic and a pear-and-gingerbread crumble.

Then head into Braddon. Once a suburb full of car yards and fast-food joints, it's now one of Canberra's most eclectic spots. Pop Canberra sells a wide range of goods from local makers and artists - everything from local gins to iconic Canberra landmarks on tea towels and coffee mugs.

And it's open late, too, so you can duck in before you head into Alcove, a modern cocktail bar where it's all about the experience. There's a five-course degustation menu with drinks. Think sake with a splash of whiskey paired with a wagyu beef tart.

And it wouldn't be a visit to the bush capital without exploring nature. Shepherd's Lookout, on the edge of Belconnen, is one of our best-kept secrets, an easy 1.2km walk with amazing views of the Murrumbidgee River.